Matatus, tuk-tuks and more: How to get around in Kenya

I had to learn many things, and one of my most pressing practical concerns was: How would I make my way around the country? I had to quickly learn about the various transportation options. The three main modes I encountered were the matatu, tuk-tuk, and pikipiki.

Matatus

If you ain’t riding a matatu, you ain’t getting the (often sweaty and crowded) Kenyan experience. A matatu is a public van that primarily travels on paved roads. It is a relatively cheap option to get between villages and towns. I have taken matatus for trips ranging from five minutes to three hours.

Larger towns have “matatu stages” where matatus sit and wait until they are full before embarking on their travel. It can be a bit overwhelming at bigger stages with "recruiters" trying to convince you to get into their matatu, on occasion grabbing your arm. I try to board one that is nearly full so I don’t have to wait long before departing.

Away from larger towns, you can wait on the side of the highway or at your local village stage and wave at an approaching matatu. If there is room, it will stop. You state your desired destination, and the driver will confirm they are headed in that direction. Especially as a foreigner, it is recommended to agree on a price before boarding to avoid any disputes once you are en route. Typically, you will be asked to pay about halfway through your trip.

Many matatus have a “conductor” that supports the driver and collects fares. He sits nearest the sliding door and if the matatu is overcrowded, a conductor may even stand up and hang out the door … maybe a little dangerous. To indicate your desire to get off, or “alight” as they say here, you flick the ceiling of the vehicle twice and the driver will stop.

There are seats for about 15 passengers on a matatu. To increase capacity, sometimes a wooden plank will be set on top of the seats, spanning the aisle, so someone can sit on the plank or “sambaza." Some matatus will really squeeze people in because more passengers = more money. I have been on a matatu with up to 24 people—although it was not my favorite journey, it was certainly one of the most memorable.

I consider window seats away from the door to be the best position because you get a breeze on what is usually a hot, sweaty ride, and you do not have to move when others want to get off.

Some matatus run independently, but I often seek out those that are part of a larger matatu line because they have consistent fares and are reputable. However, the independent ones are sometimes decked out with speakers and a television behind the driver that plays music videos, which keeps things lively.

Tuk-tuk

Tuk-tuks are more common in towns/cities and rarely found in villages. Tuk-tuks are essentially small taxis with one wheel in front and two behind. The driver sits in the front and one or maybe two other people can fit there with the driver. The back row usually fits three to four people across. There is also trunk space for bags (or, unadvisedly, a few additional passengers).

Tuk-tuks can drive on paved or dirt roads. Like a matatu, you flag down the vehicle and tell the driver where you want to go, but you normally pay at the end of the ride. Because it is more private, a tuk-tuk ride is more expensive than a matatu ride.

Pikipiki

A pikipiki is a motorbike that, like a tuk-tuk, serves as a taxi. When it is used as a taxi, as opposed to a personal vehicle, it may also be called a bodaboda. Piki drivers will often be grouped together at a stage, whether in a village, town, or city. In my village and in many rural areas, pikis are very common as they have the versatility to drive on dirt roads and are relatively fast.

Some teachers and students may even use them for their daily commute if they live far enough away from school. Pikis can fit multiple people on the back of the motorbike, sometimes more than is safe. They may also carry small animals, luggage, or furniture.

Peace Corps Kenya Volunteers are not allowed to ride on pikipikis because they can be dangerous. It is not uncommon to hear about an accident (sometimes even fatal—not many piki drivers wear helmets) involving a piki in the community.

Other types of transport

Villagers, including some Peace Corps Volunteers, may also have bicycles to make their market, place of work, and other destinations more accessible. For more distant travel in-country there are buses, trains, and airports that are centered around the biggest Kenyan cities. Those who are more well-off may have a personal car, but in the village these are not too common.

Me? If not matatu, my primary mode of transportation is "kwa miguu," or traveling “by foot." It's safe to say I have no problem getting my steps in. Fingers crossed my shoes continue to hold up.

Learn more about what it's like to volunteer in Kenya, or connect with a recruiter to start your Peace Corps journey today!