Coffee connections in Albania

Reconnecting over coffee

“I don't know, Jay. You just seem … different,” a former coworker remarked, eyeing me over her coffee. “Happier, like there's a whole new glow about you. What is it?”

It had been two years since I last saw or talked to my friends at home, so I was prepared for questions during my vacation from Peace Corps/Albania.

“Yeah, you look healthier,” another chimed in, as he sipped his drink.

“Well, it’s probably all the fresh fruit and vegetables I’ve been eating,” I said.

“So, what do you do for fun?” someone asked.

“Well, I am the face of the Peace Corps, so I just go to work every morning and drink my coffee like a good Volunteer. I have a reputation to uphold,” I smiled and winked.

“You moved all the way to Albania for coffee?” my friend joked. They laughed while I thought about just how profound that question was.

Coffee culture in Albania

Coffee culture in Albania isn’t just about caffeine, it’s about connection. Making Turkish coffee for someone is a way of showing that you care. Sitting for hours with a single espresso and talking with someone is a perfectly full day. Those peaceful moments drinking coffee changed how I experienced my service.

A cold winter start

When I arrived at my site in December 2022, winter had wrapped the village with smoke from wood-burning stoves and a bitter coldness. The village was quiet, except for a few people hauling groceries and wood back home. In the first weeks, I got a lot of stares from people thinking I was a tourist visiting during winter. As for making friends, my Albanian was still weak and attempts at conversation rarely went anywhere.

A year later, things were different. The residents talked to me, and even the village animals seemed to know me. I was busy writing health lessons with my counterpart, and I myself felt healthier and happier than ever.

Right before winter break, the school was shut down for major renovations, which included a new courtyard where there had once been only dirt and rocks, a new building with floors and outlets in every room, and a new paint job.

Building better relationships

During construction, my classes for grades 6 through 9 took place at a daycare center made up of 4 classrooms, a bathroom, and a room that doubled as the school director’s office and teachers’ lounge. Along with the constantly flowing coffee, conversations became easier in that tiny building. The teachers and I started talking more about the future, knowing that my service would end in December 2024. They had a lot of questions for me. What was I planning to do after getting back to America? Would I still be able to help with major school projects? Was I looking to get married in Albania?

As we continued to work together in that small space, I learned about plans for a new gym. I thought, if we’re getting new buildings, why not new equipment too? We applied for a Peace Corps Partnership Program grant together. All the staff were involved in writing it. We met and discussed it often over more cups of coffee.

When the grant was approved, the real challenges began. I was detailed and thorough, asking for documentation for everything. Receipts were everywhere. We all had strong opinions, exchanged them more than we ever had, and gained respect for each other in the process. Because you don’t go deep with strangers. You offer serious input to people who matter.

The school reopens

When the school reopened in September 2024, it felt like a homecoming. The students finally had real equipment. Since then, they’ve won handball tournaments, volleyball matches, and regional soccer competitions.

As I sit here at a hotel café in the U.S., writing this story and finishing up an espresso, I can’t help but wonder how my Peace Corps service could have succeeded as well as it did if I hadn’t said “yes” to all those coffee dates and gotten to know my colleagues on a deeper level. Over coffee, we got to know each other and felt more comfortable sharing differing opinions or ideas, which ultimately led to better relationships and a stronger project.

Some of my American friends at the café found it hard to believe that I extended my service for a third year, but I felt there was still work to do.

Then I ordered one more coffee.